It started with a bit of prep
It took about 45 minutes for me to get my first ride. A cattle mover / stock transporter / whatever he's called picked me up and drove me half of the way. I went with him to drop off some bulls and pick up some calves. Life is simple in Stratford and this guy sounded like he couldn't have been happier doing his job. He was telling me he has a business degree and worked for a company as their IT guy as well. He said he decided it wasn't for him and went back to what he's good at. We had a nice conversation above families, fishing, education, and politics before he dropped me off 8kms from Dawson Falls, where I'd begin my walk.
From there I started walking and was able to get the first car to pull over and pick me up. It was a young girl that worked at the cafe at Dawson Falls. Not sure how old she was and didn't get her name, but she was definitely too young to be picking strange guys like myself. She said the only reason she pulled over is because I had hiking stuff and was from a different country. How she knew that I have no idea. Apparently I look like a flippin tourist. Oh well. Shortly after that I began to hike.
This is a view of the mountain just above where I started
The track started off through the insanely thick native New Zealand forest canopy. I wasn't sure how long it would take me to get to the other side of the mountain so I walked fast. I was planning on a 7-8 hour day.
After Dawson Falls I made my way over to East Egmont. Had a short conversation with an Israeli couple, who I could have talked to all day. With all the stuff going on back in their country, they were in New Zealand climbing a mountain. Rather than bombarding them with questions about what's going on over there I went on my way.
Not too long after that I ran into a couple guys from Michigan who are both going to school down here. I hiked with them for about an hour or two when they turned to go to the top and I continued my way around. We did the phone number exchange thing and then we split.
I think I had been hiking for about three hours at this point and hadn't had anything to drink. I was told there would be tons of water everywhere so I didn't pack anyway. Well all the stream beds were dry and I was thirsty. The sun in New Zealand is way more intense than it is in California. I'm told there is some kind of hole in the Ozone layer (probably caused by LA, some how) which allows the rays to get through. A lot of the locals wear long sleeves, hats, and bandanas constantly when out of the sun. Apparently there is a high risk for skin cancer. Anyway, it would be about another hour before I see this glorious site.
I was happy
After that I continued on my way to my destination, Holly Hut. Around the mountain there is a series of huts to sleep in. They're nice because you don't have to carry a sleeping pad or tent. But, on the other hand, it kinda ruins the backcountry experience. I'm a sleep under the stars kind of guy myself.
This is a really cool lava formation called Humphries Castle (I think they misspelled it when they named it).
And from the other side
They had these stoat/ferret/rat/possum traps everywhere. The introduced mammals have brought many of the native bird species to near extinction. This park actually has one of the highest populations of Kiwi birds left.
Not sure exactly how long it took, but I think I got to Holly Hut within five hours. Maybe a little longer. Not too bad considering it is directly on the other side of the mountain from where I started.
Here a met two incredibly interesting people. It was a guy and a girl who live and work in Yosemite every year. They do backcountry trail repairs and maintenance. They said it is an awesome experience and they've both been doing it for six or seven years. This past summer they lived in a cabin 20 miles outside of the nearest road. Working 10 hour days, they do four on, three off, which they would typically spend backpacking. Certainly sounds like a great way to spend a summer. Get paid, be in the woods, time off to do what you want... Yeah, I got all the info required to apply for the job. The deadline was January 20th this year, but maybe I'll give it a shot next year.
Chatted it up for a bit and decided to hike down to Bells Falls and be back before dark. Bells Falls was formed when lava spilled out from the top of the mountain forming a dome blocking the path of the Stony River. This created the Ahukawakawa swamp. Shortly after (geologically speaking) the river pushed its way through the lava creating Bells Falls. Now the Ahukawakawa swamp acts as a sort of sponge which purifies the water in the Stony River. I hiked up Stony River from the bottom a couple weeks ago and it is absolutely pristine. It's supposed to be the purest water in New Zealand, and it starts from a stagnant swamp.
The hut had solar powered lighting, but reading by candle light was more intriguing.
The next morning I was off. I had a four hour walk to where I planned to stay the next night. It started off with a walk across the swamp. This is the view back toward Holly Hut.
I was walking fast and soaking all the scenery in. I decided to detour a bit and climb Pouakai Peak, the highest peak in the nearby Pouakai range. It's not high by California standards and, from where I was, it didn't take long to get to the top. I was hoping for views of the coastline, but instead I was trapped in a cloud.
It was a pretty cool place though. Even though it's not that high, it was totally alpine-esque. Super windy, rocky, and dry grass covered the top. I was surprised to see quite a few moths fluttering around. How they survive up there is beyond me.
I continued on my way past another hut, where I had lunch over looking New Plymouth. And from there up Henry's Peak. The track up the the peak was a series of ladders and steps that went on for a good half mile or so. This is a view of the swamp from the top. You can see where Stony River begins and meanders its way to the dome and down to Bells Falls.
The climb down was brutal though. It was probably about two miles of straight down. Lots more ladders, natural steps, and mossy rocks. The force of gravity as I made each step had my legs trembling. I wasn't out of breath or sweating much, but I could really feel the strain on my muscles. I descended about 2500 feet I reckon into a series of creeks and washed away track. The track was marked by the occasional orange arrow, otherwise I'm sure I would have lost it in places.
I got to where I was supposed to sleep at 3pm. It wasn't a luxurious hut like the other ones. It consisted of three benches with a roof on the top. I decided to take a half hour nap in the dirt before heading on. At this point I wasn't sure if I would stay another night somewhere or just walk to the road and go home. I decided the latter because I knew there was a tour of 200 people in North Egmont who were peaking the mountain. I also didn't want to fork out another $15 to stay at a hut filled with a ton of tourists. It was about another two hours to the road and was able to call my dad to pick me up.
Here's my route, roughly.
It was a pretty awesome trip with lots of awesome views. During my time here I plan on doing all the tracks and ascending Mt. Taranaki by a few different routes.
I'm starting a job on Tuesday in Hawera until Thursday. I think it's mostly a part time gig, but it doesn't seem too bad. They are paying for a rental car and the gas it takes to get there. Soon enough, hopefully, I'll buy a junker car and then they'll pay for a hotel room for me so I can stay down there. I start at 6:30 in the morning and go until all the containers are done. Not quite sure what exactly "inspecting" entails but at $20 an hour I can't complain.
See ya later alligators.
